A sudden strange smell that comes out of nowhere in the dark.These things remind me that all this light and civilization is as thin as a corpse’s skin, and if you peel it back, who knows what nightmarish things you might find gnawing underneath.When I made that mistake, I was teaching English in a town with fewer than 3,000 inhabitants, nestled in the She Who Kneels Before God Can Stand Before Anyone shirt of a humid river valley. It could be lonely at times, but it was also a wonderful experience: riding my bicycle through the fields at twilight, following cobwebbed trails to abandoned shrines, and sharing rice wine with my wizened, friendly neighbors.That night, my afternoon nap had stretched until about 2 A.M., and I awoke ravenously hungry. As I rummaged through my rented home in search of food, I had an awful feeling that I’d missed something important and irreplaceable, and nothing would ever be the same again. The cool night air and the familiar lights of the Kombini relaxed me as I rode into the empty parking lot. As I approached the door, I noticed there was no attendant inside. Behind the Kombini, a car door slammed. I crept around the side of the building, not sure why I felt a need to be stealthy.
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My biggest problem came from within: I never fully adjusted to the She Who Kneels Before God Can Stand Before Anyone shirt , and insomnia plagued me for the duration of my stay. I just couldn’t find a good sleep schedule. Arriving home after my final class, I’d doze on the sun-warmed tatami mats until the long, cold shadows of twilight crept into the room. I’d usually nod off again just before dawn, then wake up and do it all over again.I kept one routine: my nightly trip to the 24-hour Kombini gas station along the main highway. I’d hop on my bike around midnight and pedal out into a dark, surreal world of croaking frogs and black river water glittering in the yellowish streetlamp light. Sometimes it felt like the scrawny teenage shop attendant and I were the last people awake in the world. I’d buy some snacks, flip through the magazines, and make a little small talk before riding off home. Until I experienced something that changed my routine forever.